Agent Orange (5, 380 m, ~10 pitches) Hägefjell, Nissedalen, Norway May 27, 2006
Just for Fun (4+, 200 m), Trollhaugen Via Lara (4+, ~10 pitches, 380 m), Hägefjell Agent Orange (5, ~10 pitches, 380 m), Hägefjell |
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The next day the weather was still unstable and we thus chose to climb Agent Orange (grade 5, 380 m, ~10 pitches), which had the great advantage of bolted anchors. Unlike Via Lara we would thus be able to retreat if it start to rain again...... So far I had led all the pitches on Just for Fun and Via Lara but now Elvira was getting warmed up and she thus led the first pitch, which was a fully bolted slap pitch. Later the route was mixed with bolts where traditional protection could not be placed. Looking up on Agent Orange which is easily recognized by the big overhang which is climbed via the left-hand corner. The red rope leads up to Elvira who led the first pitch. |
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After one more pitch we reached the crux: the left-hand corner of the overhang. As shown below it is an awkward off-width / layback kind of thing. I place my biggest friend as high as possible and then climbed using layback technique combined with the use of holds up on the right surface. Weird climbing and I was thus relieved when I reached the bolt (the quickdraw sitting in the bolt is just visible on the picture below). The second of the rope team ahead of us negotiating the crux of the route: An awkward off-width / layback kind of thing! |
After this pitch, the climbing got somewhat easier and it was really enjoyable climbing.
Elvira finishing the crux pitch. |
Elvira was now really warmed up and volunteered to climb the next pitch which included a small overhang. She climbed it beautifully, and was really proud of her! One of her best leads up to this point in her career!
Elvira leading the pitch above the crux, which included this route which I was quite impressed that she was willing to lead! |
Next I began climbing another slab pitch which went really fine until it began raining when I was still 10-15 meters from the anchor. The protection was kind of sparse, and the friction quickly began to deteriorate. Not a good combination!
Then it began raining..... Here Elvira is negotiating a wet slab, which I really didn't enjoy leading! |
However, I hurried up as much as I could and managed to reach the anchor without any falls. What a relief when I could clip the anchor! Elvira followed, and by then the rain had started to pour down and she thus slipped a couple of times on the wet and slippery slabs but eventually got to the anchor.
Elvira's facial expression says it all - let's retreat! |
We ate our lunch at the anchor and prayed for a bit of sun to quick-dry the route, but instead we got more rain. Finally, we gave up and began rappelling. To bad we weren't able to finish the route as we were above all the hard stuff, but I guess we now have an excuse to come back to beautiful Nissedalen and re-climb the route :-)
Elvira rappelling the wet and slippery slabs. |
